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Foul feathers

Illegal chicken slaughtering in Mumbai is a disaster in waiting if the current practices of waste disposal and checks on meat quality continue unabated, say Vinay Adhyay and Malati Puranik

Mumbai, which contributes approximately 40 per cent to the national exchequer by way of taxes, constitutes a predominantly non-vegetarian population, if one were to go by the National Food Survey where egg is considered non-vegetarian. Poultry meat consumption constitutes around 22 per cent of the total meat consumption in the country.

The Indian urban population accounts for around 75 per cent of the total poultry consumption in the country. Within the metropolis of Mumbai, the total chicken consumption per day is about 300-450 metric tonnes.

During the lean period of July- September, consumption drops to 220-230 m tonnes and thereafter rises to 420-450 m tonnes per day. Most of the upmarket hotels and restaurants, constituting almost 10-15 per cent of Mumbai’s requirements, buy chicken from state-of-the-art processing facilities.

Consumers at such places (generally falling in the ‘floating population’ category) are assumed to be eating ‘safe’ meat. There are about 2,500-2,700 shops in Mumbai, which sell non-vegetarian products. The break-up is: live birds - 2,000 -2,200 numbers; cold storage - 70-80 numbers (most of the cold storages store and sell pork); and mutton shops - 250-300 numbers (most of the mutton shops are in the BMC market areas).

MYTH # 1: LIVE IS FRESH

Live bird shops are spread quite evenly throughout the city whereas cold storages are in Catholic and upmarket areas. The live bird caters to almost 95 per cent of the retail market. Almost 70 per cent of the slaughtering as well as retailing is done in the morning and the rest is done during the day.

Since the consumer preference has remained for a live bird out of ignorance, the vendor plays unscrupulously on this need.

It is a possibility that vendors, who have a huge customer base, slaughter chicken when they have the time, dress the birds and drop them in the deep freezer in the shop. Thus begins the process of slow freezing of the birds. A few hours before the expected demand, the birds are dropped into warm/hot water to speed up the process of thawing and are ready for sale as a fresh bird.

In the poultry ‘live market’, the trader is blissfully unaware of the conditions in which chicken are grown. It is imperative that chicken / animals are not given antibiotics at least 72 hours prior to slaughter.

Further, the birds are not subjected to a check-up by a veterinarian at the point of slaughter. What happens in reality is that even if the bird is slaughtered in the customer’s presence, and assuming the bird is healthy and fit for consumption, there is a time lag of at least 3 hours before the meat is cooked in the kitchen.

Meat and blood, as we all know, are fertile cultures, which allow rapid multiplication of bacteria and ecoli. Colonies of bacteria and ecoli are commonly found in meat that is left for a couple of hours which when ingested can cause gastro-intestinal disorders.

An added concern is the difficulty in tracking a particular batch of meat (traceability), since most of the meat sold is unbranded. Birds are brought by transporters and dumped at the point of sale outlets. The density of the birds per square foot in the truck is so high that ventilation is poor. Imagine if even one bird out of these is a carrier of a viral sickness. Another problem that compounds ‘live bird’ slaughter is one of pricing.

Sometimes, when the shop-owner fears the live chicken may not last another day or is on the verge of dying, he quickly slaughters it and passes it off at a lower price! The slaughter of live birds is referred to as the ‘wet’ market. Some of the grotesque facts pertaining to the existing slaughtering methods are multiple handling of meat by human hands, crude methods of processing the birds, crosscontamination on the killing table, poor quality of meat due to rigor mortis, viscera of the chicken cleaned manually, chopping knife not sterilised, no safety measures with regards to equipment and processes, and a long waiting time of live birds which leads to dehydration and death.

WASTE DISPOSAL HORRORS

On an average, Mumbai receives about 2.5-3.0 lakh live birds per day. However, on weekends, this figure easily crosses 3 lakh birds per day. Wastage from a 1.5 kg ‘live bird’ (average weight) is approximately 33 per cent, that is, 495 grams waste per day. If about 3 lakh-plus birds are slaughtered daily, it results in about 1,48,500 kgs of waste being generated.

There is a tremendous cost involved in disposing off 148 tons of waste per day. This waste comprises feathers of chicken, bones, offal / guts and the blood. If collected at a single point this waste can be converted in food for pets and also can be used in fisheries.

However, this waste is indiscriminately disposed into our sewerage system daily; the putrefaction results in generation of poisonous gases which have turned our sewerage lines into gas chambers that could explode anytime, emitting gases which could kill people.

THERE ARE ALMOST 800 SHOPS IN MUMBAI ENGAGED IN ILLEGAL SLAUGHTERING. THESE SHOPS ARE LOCATED DEEP IN THE MARKET PLACES WITH EXTREMELY POOR WATER AND DRAINAGE FACILITIES

This organic waste also becomes host to innumerable disease carrying bacteria, viruses, etc. in addition to attracting rodents and other scavengers who grow on this waste spreading deadly diseases such as plague.

There are almost 800 shops in Mumbai where this slaughtering goes on unchallenged. These shops are located deep in the market places with poor water and drainage facilities. The irony is that all these shops are carrying out the slaughtering illegally. None of them has a license to slaughter; they only have the license to sell live chicken in ‘live’ form.

How could one get a license to slaughter without a waste disposal plant? A few of the places where the concentration of these shops is high are Crawford Market, Null Bazaar, Grant Road Market, Dongri Market, Dadasaheb Phalke Road, Lalbaug Market, Near Koliwada Rly. Station, Vikhroli Rly. Station, Bandra Bazaar and Dharavi. According to our data and information, a break-up of birds coming into Mumbai is from Vashi Naka (40 per cent), Thane Naka (45 per cent), and Dahisar Naka (15 per cent).

HEALTH HAZARDS

The microbiology of chicken meat is significant - both form a shelf life during storage and foodborne illness point of view. The bacterial count of any meat during production - hand processing (manual slaughter of chicken) / mechanical methods - and marketing depends on...

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